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There is so much to do and see in Thessaloniki, especially if you are a fan of scenery, museums, remnants, and markets.
I've compiled a full guide to tour the city of Thessaloniki. Well, I should say more of an almost complete guide, since there is so much more to see and do there.
We started our trip to Sofia, Bulgaria, but on that, I will write in another post.
We flew in mid-November to Sofia, Bulgaria, with Wizz Air. The flight took a bit more than two hours, and from there, we rented a car and went on the road to Thessaloniki, Greece.
We planned on staying in Thessaloniki on Friday 'til Sunday. The weather in November resembled the Israeli weather. If Bulgaria welcomed us in cold and rainy weather, Greece welcomed us with sunny, blue skies and the urge to wear short-sleeved shirts. Except from one particular day where it rained non-stop.
The history of Thessaloniki and the Jewish community
Thessaloniki is the second-largest city in Greece that was founded by king Cassander of Macedon, and behind it stands a fascinating story.
The city, which is also known as Thessalonica, Saloniki, or Salonica, is named after Thessalonike. She was the wife of Cassander and the half-sister of Alexander the Great.
Thessalonike was the daughter of Philip II of Macedon and his mistress Nicesipolis. The day she was born, the Macedonian army won against the city of Thessaly. Thus, the name her father gave her - a combo between the city's name - Thessaly, and the word "Nika," which means victory.
The town went under many reigns, and therefore you can see signs of all those different periods; The Macedonian, the Roman, The Ottoman, and of course, the Greek.
Many Jews arrived in Thessaloniki after the expulsion from Spain in 1492. And the Jewish community thrived and flourished in the area, and became a significant part of the city's economy during the Ottoman Empire.
During world war I, about 10,000 Jews came to Israel after a devastating fire that took place in the city, leaving many destitute.
And, due to anti-semitic activities that started there due to the migration of antisemitic refugees from Anatolia to Greece.
During world war II, 96% of the Jews (about 50,000) were perished in the holocaust, leaving hardly any trace of the great Jewish community.
We visited in the area right on the promenade, and somehow missed the Liberty square (A.K.A Eleftherias Square) that today serves as a parking lot.
In the old days, the square used to serve as a meeting place of Thessaloniki Jews. And later as a place where the Nazis gathered the Jews together to humiliate them. Towards the end of the war, Jews were taken from that square to the train station. And from there, they were led to the extermination camps.
One of the humiliating events that happened in that square took place on July 11, 1942. On that day, about 9,000 Jews aged 19-45 were forced to exercise and dance non-stop in the square, under the blazing sun, while the Germans mocked from the side.
During that event, many Jews needed medical treatment due to the brutal beatings that suffered from the German soldiers.
Nowadays, you can see a monument with a panel that commemorates the Jewish community of Thessaloniki that was perished in the holocaust.
The monument is found close to the Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki, which, unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to visit there. In the Museum, you can see photos of the event in the square I told you earlier.
A car trip in Thessaloniki
Traveling in Thessaloniki with a large vehicle is a bit of a challenge. Thessaloniki characterizes as a city with many narrow alleys, and often steep ascents reminiscent of traveling in the town of Safed in Israel.
We rented a 9-seater van and made our way to the apartment we rented for the day.
As I said, Thessaloniki is very crowded, and getting to the apartment was a bit hectic and tiring. The narrow alleys made it difficult to reach the destination, especially since each lane had a fair amount of cars that parked on both sides of the street, just like you'll find in Tel Aviv.
Eventually, we arrived on-site and even managed to park the car in the private parking of the owners. Spartacus, the owner, was amiable and communicative.
Apartment 1
The 80 square meters apartment is very spacious and was very cheap and affordable for six people (about 55 euros, including taxes).
The place has free Wi-Fi, which was a must on every booking we made. A bunk bed and a single bed in 1 room. A double bed in another room and an open-concept living room with a Chaise lounge sofa, a sofa bed that opens into a great and practical kitchen with stoves, kettle, large fridge, and a dinner table.
Since we keep kosher, we made sure to bring full cooking equipment for cooking abroad: pots, plates, cutlery, etc. We made sure that each apartment had a stovetop and a kettle for morning coffee or tea and for filling a thermos with hot water to make hot drinks on the roads or eat instant soups with soup almonds.
To book the apartment, click here (if you reserve the place via my affiliate link, you will pay the regular price for the apartment, and I might get a commission on the purchase).
Upper city of Thessaloniki
Once we got to the apartment, we decided to close the evening as soon as possible, to exploit the short Friday to the max.
We started the day with a trip to the Heptapyrgion castle. The place opens at 8:30, but even though we arrived earlier, they opened the doors for us.
If you arrive early in the morning, you can easily find a parking spot. At least during the winter season, which is off-season.
Although, while we toured the place, a massive group of students came and the parking lot was quite full.
On-site, the parking is free of charge, and so does wandering around the castle. However, it is highly recommended to pay those 3 euros and enter inside.
The heptapyrgio fortress was under Turkish rule until the end of the 19th century. After the Turks expelled, the fort was converted into a prison.
Inside the castle, you can enjoy a small museum full of info. You can read about the place. And it also includes items from that period and a glimpse of the lives of the prisoners.
The prison doesn't send a creepy vibe like the one we visited in Montana. However, it certainly seemed unpleasant. Especially the isolation chambers.
The highlight of the place is found up the stairs. Reaching the top of the castle and overlooking the city of Thessaloniki.
Some of the stairs climbing to the top are a bit challenging, so you should take this into account when traveling with someone with disabilities.
A person with mild disability and a group member that can assist him can definitely manage to get to the top successfully.
We then headed to the Trigonion tower, which was built in the second half of the 15th-century and served as a warehouse and artillery tower. The inside of the tower is not accessible; however, you can reach the plaza located right next to it and enjoy the marvelous view of the city free of charge.
If you are in a hurry, I recommend prioritizing the Heptapyrgio castle over the tower. Although it will cost you money, it is far more impressive and interesting than the tower.
A tour in the city center, tourist focal points, promenade, and some shopping
We wandered through the city while watching several tourist focal points along the way. We saw from afar the Rotunda, which is among the ancient structures in all of Greece. The structure was meant to serve as a royal tomb for Emperor Galerius, but eventually, it served as a church and then a mosque.
We then reached the Roman Forum, where modern and antique are seamed together. On the one hand, you find the forum plaza with remains of ancient times, and on the other, you find residential buildings and shops.
The roman Forum is an archaeological site dating to the Roman rule that was discovered in 1960, and nowadays, you can tour the place from the inside for a fee or enjoy the view from the street.
We decided to save time and money and watch the area from the outside, but the ruins enthusiasts will undoubtedly enjoy to explore and walk among the remains.
We traveled along the Nikis avenue, the central waterfront promenade, on a Shabbas walk. That's why, unfortunately, I don't have any photos from the morning walk. The Niki's promenade offers open sea and other known tourist spots.
The white tower is a 15th-century circular tower built to protect the city. During the Ottoman rule, the tower was called the "bloody tower" since it served as a prison where inmates were executed.
When the Greeks returned to power, they colored the tower in white, but with time the color flaked. Inside the tower, you can find the Byzantine culture museum (a paid attraction).
A bit further, you can see the statue of Alexander the great riding on his horse. As I mentioned earlier, the Liberty square is found in the promenade, on the opposite side of it. The square has a memorial monument to the Jews that were perished in the holocaust. And the square is also known as the "Jewish Martyrs" square.
We walked in the promenade on Saturday night too. And a visit in the night is not like a visit in the day. Each time has its beauty and magic.
Despite the chilly weather, the cafes and restaurants were packed with people.
We wanted to take advantage of Saturday night to do some shopping and travel the area a bit more, but since some of the places close early, we got the chance to be more impressed with the street lights and less from the shopping spree.
Shopping, in general, was a bit disappointing, to be honest. The prices are quite the same as in Israel. We love finding shops that are not brands and fun to explore, but unfortunately, this time, we barely encountered any.
Among the things I did purchase was new Fila shoes that cost about 26 euros (when buying a couple) at the One Salonica Outlet Mall. The mall has a free and spacious parking lot right next to it.
I also purchased a screen protector for my smartphone at one of the downtown stores, which was a bit cheaper than in Israel.
The lack of big non-branded shopping centers was really missing for me. These centers can usually be found while traveling in other parts of Europe.
I could not find Stores like the German Kik, where you can find clothes, household items, and other stuff at low prices. Or the French Action store that has so many things like you can see in the Israeli Max stock or Dan Deal or the American Dollar Tree with great prices and finds.
Every time I go into these stores, I come out with something (Here's, for example, a cute penguin bowl I found in the French Action store).
Primark lovers will also be disappointed in not having even one branch in Greece.
I believe there are stores in Greece like those I mentioned. However, we didn't come across them, unfortunately.
We thought of going on Friday noon to eat at Salonikimas restaurant, which we understood should be kosher.
The restaurant is located in one of the alleys next to the Nikis promenade.
The area is packed with underground parking spaces; however, since we had a large vehicle, it was a bit of a challenge to find parking.
We eventually found an underground car park that fits the height of the car, but we decided to check and see if the restaurant is open first before paying on parking.
We walked to the street where the restaurant should have been located, but we couldn't find it. Then, one of us noticed a sign on a door that seems far from being a restaurant. Of course, this is due to security reasons.
In the end, we found out that the place was already closed, as they are preparing for Shabbat dinners.
Apartment 2
On Saturday, we stayed in an apartment that was close to the synagogue, around 5-10 minutes' walk.
The apartment had three spacious rooms with comfortable king-size beds and a living room with a balcony overlooking the market.
The owner, Harry, and the cleaning lady were very friendly and even allowed us to get the apartment ahead of time.
Moreover, Harry was very communicative, and it was important for him to know that everything is to our satisfaction.
The apartment's advantages were, of course, the proximity to the synagogue, the market, and the city center, so everything was in an easy walking distance.
The apartment was well preserved, and except 4-5 stairs in the entrance, the apartment is accessible by elevator. Be extra careful with the lifts in Greece and Bulgaria, since there is no inner door and you can see the walls moving in front of you.
The only downsides of the apartment were the single powder room that needs to serve many people and the parking. To order the apartment, click here (by purchasing via my link, I might get a commission).
As Shabbath keepers, we could not leave the car in the paid parking near the building. Both due to parking time limitation, and because there is a need to renew the payment on Saturday, which is not possible for us.
So we decided to search on Google Maps for free parking and found a free parking lot about 500 meters from the place.
We Parked the car there, and gladly the car was complete and spotless when we came to take it on Sunday morning.
The map for the free parking lot if you want is here: kassandrou 79, Thessaloniki
A little walk in the market
Just before Shabbas, we had to buy some stuff, and the proximity to the market was beneficial. I'm not sure if the market we were in was part of the famous Modiano market.
We went down to the colorful market and found the store we needed in no time. The seller only spoke Greek, but with a few gestures and her strong desire to help us, we left the store with a smile and learned some words in Greek.
In general, the Greeks, just like the Israelis, turned out to be very warm people who love to help and teach.
If you continue down that road, you will reach the part in the market that has many clothes stands.
Warm Shabbas food abroad
Usually on Shabbas abroad we manage with products we bring from home and some that we can purchase in the area (Mostly vegetables, but also Pringles and other goods. The most exceptional item we ever found was in India. After a long time of eating fruits and veggies, we discovered kosher Nutella! That was just a delight).
This time we decided to pamper ourselves with an order from Kosher Ladino.
Kosher Ladino company was a dream initiated by Ino and Regina that have extensive knowledge about kosher and the Spanish-Thessaloniki cuisine. Together with Michael and Sofia, the vision evolved and brought into action with a company that delivers kosher food everywhere in Greece.
Kosher Ladino company provides quality kosher food, made with love and respect, that befits food for the soul.
The food is manufactured under strict conditions to ensure its quality and safety.
Kosher Ladino's desire to serve kosher food came from the love of nutritious, healthy food, and the connection to god.
The company ensures using local ingredients and tastes, to expose the diners with the unique and best flavors of the Thessaloniki cuisine.
We got a discount in exchange for our honest review, and we went to their website to decide which dishes we wanted to order.
The entire order was discussed via Email, and everything went smoothly. We closed the final details of location and time, and that was it.
It is best to contact the company enough time before your trip so that they will be ready to answer your every request.
Kosher Ladino thought of everything that you can even rent a hot plate for Shabbat (Starting at 20 euros). We just made sure to bring with us a time switch for the hot plate.
The food came at the specified hour, and the payment was made at the spot in cash.
We got two gigantic, impressive, and delicious Thessalonikan Challahs. We really enjoyed them on Saturday and the next week with all the leftovers we had.
In addition, we got a colorful dish of flatbreads filled with schnitzels and Vegetables. Chicken with mushrooms and vibrant rice with pomegranate grains. Potatoes and sweet potatoes baked in the oven and two parve desserts - a dreamy apple cake and a creamy dessert with vanilla custard, whipped cream, pistachios, and what seemed like the thin noodle threads called kadaif.
The food came in neatly packaged cardboard boxes, and every box content got us impressed.
All the dishes seemed to be treated with love and thought, with attention to every detail, and use of fresh and high quality produce.
The company's facilities are located in the city of Katerini, a 40-minute drive from Thessaloniki, overlooking the famous mount Olympus on the one hand and the sea on the horizon on the other hand.
We took a little hike in the area of Olympus mountain; however, due to our tight schedule, we could not visit their facilities.
In Kosher Ladino's facilities, you can enjoy meals every day, except Saturdays, from 11:00. And you can even get a tour inside the preparation areas, enjoy a workshop for making Burekitas or Thessaloniki Challah, and more.
The activities on site must be coordinated in advance.
A personalized box price includes a main course, side dish, salad, dessert, bread, and cutlery costs between 13-15 euros. Shipping costs about 5 euros per box.
The food comes in airtight boxes so that it can be reheated in a non-kosher microwave as well. And f the shipment is to a remote location, the food is carefully packed after a quick freeze in an isothermal box, allowing to maintain the product's temperature.
The food of Kosher Ladino is Glatt kosher, supervised by Rabbi Aharon Israel, the rabbi of the Jewish community of Thessaloniki.
The food can be ordered to all parts of Greece, and for more details click here: https://www.kosherladino.gr
If you have any questions, we recommend contacting them on the Contact Us page, they answer quickly and helo with any questions you may have.
Graffiti and museums on every corner
Thessaloniki itself seems a bit outdated with many graffiti paintings on every corner, but it's definitely a magical place. And if you like museums, you'll be delighted to find that Thessaloniki is rich in museums. During the winter period (starting in November), you can enjoy a wide variety of museums at half the price.
You can find museums in all sorts of matters around Thessaloniki. Be it the Archaeological Museum, the Jewish Museum, the War museum, the Byzantine culture museum, the Macedonian struggle museum, the Museum of pharmacy, and the Ataturk museum of the Turkish ruler from Egypt and more.
From what we realized, the last two museums are open to the public free of charge. The only problem when traveling by car is parking. Many places seemed to have plenty of parking, but it turned out they were only serving the locals. So pay attention to the parking signs and if you're not sure, just ask the locals. They are eager to help.
Since on Sunday morning, many places are closed, we headed to the western side of Greece, to places that were open and were so beautiful and interesting. But that's for another post :-)
And if you don't want to read all, here are a few info points:
Thessaloniki
A crowded city reminiscent the Northern Israeli city Safed, with narrow alleys and steep ascents that a large vehicle might find hard to handle.
If you find an apartment in the city center, it's more accessible to explore the city on foot, if you can.
Flights
We flew with Wiz Air to Bulgari, since we wanted to travel to another country besides Greece. Of course, you can fly directly to Greece and find great prices. The easiest way to find flights is through skyscanner.net.
Please be advised that the prices for low-cost flights do not include luggage fees and more.
Weather
The weather in mid-November 2019 characterized with warmth, similar to the Israeli weather, except for one day where it rained non-stop.
Therefore, keep up to date with the weather and have a plan B on hand.
Vehicle
Renting a car from Bulgaria and crossing to Greece requires the issuing of a Green Card. You need to contact the rental company at least four business days before your arrival and send them a copy of your passport and driver's license.
Of course, you can also rent a car in Greece, but from what we've seen, you will not be able to cross borders.
We usually rent a car through economycarrentals.com, which we found to be the cheapest and convenient to book (this is an affiliate link, which means I can get a commission if you purchase from this link).
Each deal in the site is closed with a different car dealership. You get the car dealership's name just after completing your order. If you want more details regarding this site, I'd be happy to write a thorough post about it.
Fuel prices are quite like in Israel. About 1.6 euros/liter per petrol. The diesel, however, is cheaper - about 1.4 euros/liter.
Parking
Many of Thessaloniki's signs are for short-term parking or residents only. Make sure, before you park in an inviting spot, to check if it is not reserved just for locals.
In the city center, there are many underground car parks. Still, they are more suited to regular family vehicles and less to vans (We only found two underground car parks that were at a height sufficient for the dimensions of our car).
If you want to save money and don't mind walking, you can try and search for free parking on the Google Maps app and hope to find one in the area.
Buses
If you haven't rented a car and have no desire to hike, you can travel Thessaloniki by bus. You can purchase tickets in several locations around the city or some of the buses. Full info found here.
The website is full of info regarding the bus lines, and if you purchase a local sim or find a hot spot (WiFi) and you got Internet, you can download the buses application and get live updates.
Since we rented a car, we didn't need to use the app or the website.
To download the Android app, click here
To download the IOS app click here
Tickets sales information, click here.
Toll roads
In Greece, you will find a large number of toll roads, and a few more will soon be added. Prices are not the cheapest, but it often saves significant time when trying to make as many attractions as possible in the short winter days.
Google Maps / Waze / Free Internet / How to get from place to place
If you decided not to purchase a local SIM, make sure to download all the maps you need for traveling on Google Maps. That way, you can get offline navigation (without Internet) anywhere.
There are a variety of places that allow you to get free Internet, but on the go, don't count on it and make sure to download the maps you need.
Border Crossing
When crossing the border from Kulata, Bulgaria to Greece, expect traffic. The Greek border checks each and every vehicle that passes through that border, and it takes quite some time. Prepare the passports of all the passengers. And the orange card that is found in the documents of the car.
Once you're done, you will drive a few meters and find another post where you will need to pay for entering Greece.
The mountains border from Greece to Bulgaria takes a lot of time due to the winding roads, but it is much quicker, and there is no toll.
Near the border of Greece-Bulgaria on the Kulata side, there are vat free shops you can enjoy on both sides of the barriers.
We didn't visit them, so I don't really know if they worth a stop.
Kosher food
There is a Chabad house in the city with a restaurant at the Astoria hotel. Salonikimas restaurant that should be kosher as we understood and Kosher Ladino service, which provides meals for every day of the week with deliveries throughout Greece.
Synagogue
For those who come to pray on Shabbas at the Yad Lazicharon Synagogue, you must register before Shabbat with your passport. Even if they say you don't need to, insist on registering! My brother was told there is no need to register, and on Saturday, they didn't let him in for a very long time.
The active synagogue in Thessaloniki does not resemble a regular synagogue but instead is located in a large office building. The synagogues' location on Google Maps.
City attractions and focal points
Heptapyrgion castle, Trigonion tower, Nikis Avenue, Martyr's square with a memorial to Thessaloniki Jews who perished in the holocaust, the White Tower, Roman Agora Forum, a sculpture of Alexander the great riding on his horse, Modiano market.
If you're a museum person, Thessaloniki offers an endless inventory of museums of all kinds. During winter, from November 1st to March 31st, you can enjoy a reduced price of 50% discount on almost all museums.
Currency and Shopping
The money in Greece is the Euro, as in many Western European cities.
For purchases over 25 euros, in Greece, you will need to enter your credit card's PIN, so don't forget it.
If you do forget it, there is an option, for example, in Isracard, to recover your secret code using their app.
From what we have seen, the prices in Thessaloniki quite resemble the prices in Israel, but you can find things that are slightly cheaper in Greece.
Have a fun trip, and take care!
If you have any questions, feel free to write me in the comments section down below. And if you haven't subscribed yet, feel free to follow our updates on Instagram, Facebook, youtube, and TikTok.
Sources of information that helped to write this article: Wikipedia, Guidol, Gotravel.
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